Friday, December 28, 2012

Body by Beckham


Women weren't the only ones baring skin in ads this year. Fast fashion giant H&M debuted its first Super Bowl ad for the David Beckham Bodywear collection, starring the soccer star in his skivvies. During the London Summer Olympics, images from the campaign were projected onto the White Cliffs of Dover. (February, August)

The fall 2012 runway collections were steeped in 1920s influences, from Ralph Lauren's "Great Gatsby"-inspired gowns to Tory Burch's sportswear inspired by 1920s Deauville, to Frida Giannini's Art Deco black-and-gold fringed flapper dresses at Gucci. The 1920s were roaring on screen, too, with HBO's popular "Boardwalk Empire," set in the 1920s, sparking a retro haircut craze for men and the "Artist," set in 1927, nabbing multiple Oscars, including a statue for costume design. Expect the flappers and fringe to keep swinging into 2013, when Baz Luhrmann's "Great Gatsby" is to hit movie theaters in late summer. (February)

Capitol Couture

The style-obsessed world of the popular YA novel "The Hunger Games" was brought to life on screen by costume designer Judianna Makovsky, with a cast of hundreds dressed in everything from utilitarian garb with Depression-era grit to glam-gone-grotesque get-ups inspired by the latest haute couture. The character Effie, one part Marie Antoinette and one part Isabella Blow, could barely walk in her shoes — which was intentional. "She is a fashion victim," Makovsky said. The studio launched a website, CapitolCouture.com, dedicated to fashion inspired by the film, and collaborated with China Glaze on a range of nail polish colors. (March)

Fashionable politics

Vogue Editor in Chief Anna Wintour made the list of top fundraisers released by the Obama reelection campaign. Holding star-studded fundraising events in June, September and October, she raised so much money — more than half a million dollars — that rumors swirled that she could be rewarded with an ambassadorship to France or England. (June, September, October)

New-media stars rising

Street style bloggers Scott Schuman (thesartorialist.com) and paramour Garance Doré (garancedore.com) won the Council of Fashion Designers of America's Eugenia Sheppard Media Award, cementing their status in the fashion media pantheon. (June)

Never mind glass

Christian Louboutin designed a pair of limited-edition heels inspired by Cinderella in honor of Walt Disney's rerelease of "Cinderella" on Blu-ray and DVD. The mesh heels were embellished with crystals and butterflies — and sported the designer's signature red soles, of course. (July)

Sex and the single girl

Before Carrie Bradshaw of "Sex and the City," Joan Holloway of "Mad Men" and Anastasia Steele of "Fifty Shades of Grey," there was Helen Gurley Brown. The legendary author and Cosmopolitan magazine editor died in New York at age 90, leaving behind a generation of women emboldened by her controversial view of feminism-laced female sexuality. (August)

Gangnam style

South Korean pop star Psy's "Gangnam Style" was the surprise hit of the year. The song, a dance-y satire of the Beverly Hills-like Gangnam district of Seoul, became an international smash hit after its surreal music video went viral on YouTube. Then its influence quickly spread into all realms of popular culture, including fashion. Psy's stylish sunglasses and powder-blue tuxedo coat were a popular Halloween costume, and designer Jill Stuart has announced plans to team up with Psy on a line of "Gangnam Style" clothes that will be exclusive to Asian markets. (September)

Sports report

Athletes descended on New York Fashion Week, where they polished their personal brands and tested their reporting for media outlets. Olympian Ryan Lochte, the swimmer with questionable style chops, covered the runways for E! Entertainment. There were enough basketballers on the scene (Russell Westbrook, Chris Bosh) to play a pickup game. Tyson Chandler and wife Kimberly were reporting a story for Vogue magazine. And Rajon Rondo was deputized as GQ magazine's fashion intern. It may have been the first time in fashion week history that an intern was guaranteed a front-row seat. (September)

A very Vreeland world

She helped popularize bikinis and blue jeans, discovered Lauren Bacall, launched Twiggy and advised Jackie O. Diana Vreeland, who died in 1989, transformed fashion in the 1940s, '50s and '60s, when she worked at Harper's Bazaar and Vogue magazines. This year, she was celebrated in a number of media, with Lisa Immordino Vreeland's documentary "The Eye Has to Travel"; Amanda Mackenzie Stuart's biography "Empress of Fashion"; a museum exhibition in Venice, Italy; and a Rodeo Drive Walk of Style Award in Beverly Hills. (September)

Imperfect pitch

"It's not a journey. Every journey ends, but we go on." So began Brad Pitt's now-infamous Chanel No. 5 ad, and it seems that the commercial will go on in the form of countless parodies. The black-and-white ad's weird spoken-word tone was widely spoofed on TV and the Internet and provided an easy joke for late-night talk shows. For his part, Pitt denies seeing the parodies but says "fair play" of the jokesters poking fun. (November)

Babe in the woods

Tavi Gevinson launched a fashion blog, Style Rookie, at age 11. This year, at the advanced age of 16, she sang "Heart of Gold" in the animated film "Cadaver," was cast in an upcoming live-action movie in August and published her first book, "Rookie Yearbook One," in September. Oh, and she gave a Ted talk. (February, August, September, April)

Bond in style

This year marked 50 years of James Bond on film and 50 years of Bond's sartorial flair. The latest chapter, "Skyfall," with suits (and, yes, a tuxedo) by Tom Ford, was released in November. Some critics called it the best Bond yet, and the box office seems to agree — earlier this month it became Sony Pictures' highest-grossing movie of all time. (November)

Tribal trouble

November might have been Native American Heritage month, but a couple of gaffes proved that pop culture still has a long way to go in the sensitivity department. No Doubt's Wild West-themed "Lookin' Hot" video featured Gwen Stefani on horseback, with a feather in her hair, and the Victoria's Secret fashion show had model Karlie Kloss marching down the runway in a bikini and a feather headdress — a scene that was cut before the broadcast aired. Both No Doubt and Victoria's Secret felt the need to quickly and publicly apologize. (November)

Thursday, December 27, 2012

Tips for a fashion-forward 2013


The biggest trend in fashion for the new year might just be that there isn't anything especially trendy.

Based on runway and retailer previews, the must-have look in 2013 could be menswear-inspired and tailored, or ladylike chic. Colors are bold and bright, or graphic black and white; fabrics are slinky and silky, or textured and tough.

And pick your silhouette: There are both short, sexy minis and long. flowing maxis to be had. Check off dressed-up shorts, jumpsuits and slinky mermaid gowns.

It was largely the same story for fall 2012 - and spring before that. 2011, too.

"The problem with trends is that we are trended out. ... We are so exhausted by overload that we just don't have a way to process anything new," says trend analyst Marian Salzman, CEO of ad agency Havas PR North America.

Remember the days when a new fashion season meant a new must-have and a corresponding closet purge? Out with boy-cut jeans, in with skinnies. Out with skinnies, in with bell-bottoms.

Years ago, there was often a single muse who dominated the season. If she were a bohemian free spirit in the spring, she might be a tough biker chick in the fall. It seemed as if every designer was courting her at the same time.

Now the models on one catwalk seem like they were dressed personally by the designer from his or her singular point of view. Looks aren't stagnant, and you can see tastes evolving - right now there certainly is movement toward sophisticated, grown-up clothes in rich jewel tones and sultry touches - but there isn't a feeling that it's being done frenetically.

One style might be more "in" than another, but nothing is quite "out."

"When I started in this industry over 20 years ago, we'd be on the plane after the shows and talking about the trends of next season," says Elle creative director Joe Zee. "We really lived in the bubble. You could say, `It's all about the miniskirt,' and immediately you'd hear, `Oh, well, there's nothing for me.' Now, I can say it's all about the `60s and miniskirts again, but there are still a lot of palazzo pants, and jeans, and everything else, so you'll find something."

Do a search for high-waisted bellbottoms on any given day, and you'll find a million pairs out there - and that's a season when they weren't deemed "trendy," says Zee, who also is curator for the online shopping destination Vente-Privee.

Of course, the Internet has played a huge role in this. Shoppers see new styles more or less at the same time as the retailers and editors sitting in the front row, so fashion has become more democratized. There's still a role for insiders, but it's more as style interpreters instead of final arbiters.

Stores have a much bigger selling space with their websites, so they don't have to choose between the wide-leg pants or the skinny ones. And consumers don't have to wait for the big deliveries a few times a year. There's always a rolling supply of new items - and things headed for clearance racks.

This isn't necessarily a bad thing for fashion.

It was a stretch for a designer long respected for career clothes to tout hot pants. The same could be said for the wunderkind doing embellished ballskirts. Now they don't have to. This allows for more creativity, not less.

No one has to look alike. No one has to squeeze into an unflattering must-have item just because a few fashion insiders deemed it must have. After years of the industry preaching personal style, it seems it's taking its own advice, and designers seem more concerned with carving out their own look - and gaining fans of it - than jumping on an inauthentic trend.

Women can approach fashion as if they have options, Zee says. Take colorblocking, for example.

"I've said that's a `trend' for five seasons. This season I'll say it's black and white, and maybe last year I said it was red and pink, but the look hangs out, has a longer life, and that gives you a broader sense of style," Zee says.

When tastemakers began touting "personal style," Zee says he's not fully sure they meant it. But say something often enough, and people start believing it.

"In the moment maybe it was a marketing ploy," he says, "but then came `Sex and the City'- which I think was a tent pole of personal style - and then the Internet and the popularity of `street style,' and now I think women are saying, `I'm going to do what I like to do.'"

There's also the importance of value in fashion now, and there's not just a dollar sign attached to that. Quality, heritage and integrity are factors.

Going into 2013, Salzman says consumers have developed a mindset that will focus on a bigger picture than one snapped at the end of a catwalk.

"We're going to spend more time thinking about what it means to buy something, and we're much more engaged about what our clothing says as our signature," she says.

Wednesday, December 26, 2012

Jessica Simpson's Christmas tweet seems to confirm pregnancy rumor


Actress, singer and fashion designer Jessica Simpson sent a Christmas Twitter message that apparently confirms media rumors that she is pregnant - showing a photo of her daughter Maxwell with the words "Big Sis" spelled out in sand.

The picture's caption reads "Merry Christmas from my family to yours."

Simpson had her first child, Maxwell Drew Johnson, in May. She has since become a spokeswoman for Weight Watchers.

A representative for Simpson was not immediately available for comment.

Simpson rose to fame as a teen pop star and became a household name after starring in a TV reality show with her then-husband Nick Lachey, a member of the boy band 98 Degrees. The pair divorced after three years of marriage.

She went on to star in the 2005 film version of "The Dukes of Hazzard" and re-invented herself as a country singer in 2008. She currently designs apparel, accessories and other fashion products and is a mentor on the TV contest "Fashion Star."

Simpson's fiance, Eric Johnson, is a former U.S. professional football player whose career spanned seven seasons for both the San Francisco 49ers and New Orleans Saints.

Tuesday, December 25, 2012

A look back at the year in fashion for 2012


1. Still stylish at 175

Holt Renfrew celebrated 175 years in business.

2. New designers in the house

Two legendary fashion houses announced new designers. Raf Simons arrived at Dior and Hedi Slimane was appointed to Yves Saint Laurent — or rather Saint Laurent as it's now known. Then Nicolas Ghesquière, designer and creative director for the house of Balenciaga announced his departure. American designer Alexander Wang was appointed new creative director.

3. Demise of Fashion Television

After 27 years on air, Fashion Television is cancelled. The groundbreaking series, hosted by Jeanne Beker since April 1985, was instrumental in bringing high fashion to living rooms around the world.

3. Brad Pitt become the face of Chanel No. 5

Chanel selected world renowned actor Brad Pitt to be the face of the upcoming advertising campaign for Chanel N°5, the French fashion house announced on Twitter.

4. In her genes

Aerin Lauder, granddaughter of the late cosmetics doyenne Estée Lauder, launched her own lifestyle brand called Aerin, at Holt Renfrew.

5. Fashion Cares ends after 27 years

The legendary AIDS fundraising event that brought together celebrity culture, spectacular fashion shows and celebrities is over. Elton John belted out the final note.

6. Death notices

Legendary British hairstylist Vidal Sassoon died of natural causes at his home in Hollywood. He was 84. Anna Piaggi, legendary Italian fashion editor and style icon, died at 81. Helen Gurley Brown, an American author, publisher, and the editor-in-chief of Cosmopolitan magazine for 32 years, died at 90.

7. Fast fashion went cerebral

H &M collaborated with avant guard designer Martin Margiela for a limited edition collection for the masses.

8. Designer stores flocked to our malls

International retailers beat a path to Canada including Kate Spade, Tori Burch, Express, Limited, Anne Taylor, Massimo Dutti and Ted Baker.

9. Seeing red

The colour red was the basis for a lawsuit, as Christian Louboutin and YSL battled it out in court over the use of red soles on fancy shoes.

10. The simple sweatshirt gained haute status

During the fashion collections in Paris many fashionistas were seen decked out in sweatshirts by Kenzo and Balanciaga.

Monday, December 24, 2012

Vivienne Westwood - Vivienne Westwood's fashion hate


Dame Vivienne Westwood admits she used to ''hate'' fashion because it was such hard work and took years before the media noticed her.

Dame Vivienne Westwood used to ''hate'' fashion.
The long-serving British fashion designer often had moments during her 40-plus-year career where she found it tough to keep going, especially when the media largely ignored her for ten years, but says the rewards of creating your own clothing line are worth the effort.

She said: ''I used to hate fashion. Well, not hate it completely. There always comes a point where you think: well, that's incredible. When you're really pleased. But it's very hard work. How do I keep going? I tell myself that when I've finished this pair of trousers, I can read my book.

''I was successful when I started out. That's how fashion works - the new thing is the news! Then they want somebody else new. I was completely ignored by the fashion press for about - easily 10 years. I thought it was terrible. In France, they would have looked after you better. In England, they're so bourgeois.''

The 71-year-old flamboyant diva - who brought punk and new age fashion into the mainstream - revealed model Jerry Hall is her ideal clothes horse and she thinks the statuesque 56-year-old star is the epitome of glamour.

Vivienne enthused: ''I once opened the show with her; she came up through the floor and stood still for about 10 minutes. I think she just feels the glamorous, Hollywood thing. She spritzes perfume before walking down the catwalk. She's amazing.''

Sunday, December 23, 2012

Fashion Spotlight: Sofia Vergara, Claire Danes and More Stylish 2013 SAG Nominees



With award season around the corner and nominations rolling in left and right, our anticipation for fabulous red carpet fashion is building by the minute!

And since we have to wait a while before stunning stars debut their designer gowns, we're reliving some of the most fashion-forward nominees' greatest red carpet hits. Last week, we singled out stylish singers up for Grammy Awards, and today we're taking a look at the recently announced Screen Actors Guild Award nominees.

Just how does Sofia Vergara up the va-va-voom volume of her voluptuous form when hitting an award show? We take a look at her tricks for balancing out her curvy figure, and track nominees like Claire Danes' favorite designers. The Homeland star opted for J. Mendel for more than one red carpet biggie this year, so it will be interesting to see if she reaches for the designer come Jan. 27. Perhaps Dior devotee Jennifer Lawrence will hit the SAG Awards in a dress by her fave French fashion house and Naomi Watts will opt for another showstopping floor-length Zac Posen, like she did for the Los Angeles premiere of The Impossible. We break down Vergara, Danes, Lawrence and more nominees' red carpet style.

Friday, December 21, 2012

Review of fashion in 2012: All aboard the haute express



Not one to hide his light, Marc Jacobs' autumn 2012 show for Louis Vuitton in March featured a full-sized, bespoke stream train, which models in Poiret-esque coats and cartoon cloche hats boarded, accompanied by porters weighed down with monogrammed luggage.

It stands as a leitmotif for the industry this year, the lavish departures and loaded decampments, nostalgic reveries despite relentless onward motion through changes of scenery, names and temperament. And that's before we even consider the whirligig of trends that the past 12 months have also thrown up.

Three new appointments, three new aesthetics – all of them at the very hautest levels of fashion, the very pinnacles of prestige – as Raf Simons, Hedi Slimane and Alexander Wang take the reins at Christian Dior, Yves Saint Laurent and Balenciaga respectively. The latter is a relatively new piece of information, announced last month; the former two have been picked over ever since John Galliano's exit first set the merry-go-round spinning in 2011.

Simons' final show in February after seven years at Jil Sander was one of those rare marvels: a collection that was as understated as its impact was obvious. The third in a triptych of couture-inspired, ineffable collections that had seemed to many an open pitch for the spot at Dior, there were mid- century bustier dresses made modern with sharp geometries; Fifties-era double-faced blanket coats, in camel, blush-pink and crimson made fitting going-away outfits. Its aesthetic coherence, a functional but formidable fragility, characterised the whole genteel mood of the season, and both audience and auteur shed tears during a heartfelt standing ovation.

In Paris the following month, Stefano Pilati's Saint Laurent swansong was touching – here was a designer who has for a decade managed the difficult task of fitting his own personality and that of his illustrious forebear into a line that never felt compromised or divided, or in any way diverted from the founder's original message of strong, progressive femininity. So many of the label's commercial successes under his tenure – the Muse and Downtown bags, the Tribute pumps – already feel so much a part of the sartorial canon that fashion fans became fraught at the idea of them falling out of production with Pilati's departure.

When Slimane – erstwhile photographer and the man whose skinny silhouette at Dior Homme famously encouraged Karl Lagerfeld to go on a diet in the early Noughties – took over in March, his intention to break with the recent past was clear. The change of name to 'Saint Laurent Paris' was intended to recall the label's very first incarnation in the Sixties – instead, all it seemed to do was start a chain reaction in the summer that culminated in October with a show that many deemed disappointing, and some even desultory. Slimane reworked the Saint Laurent archive according to his own back catalogue: skinny suits and boho flashes, jewel-coloured gowns and scatterings of safari that were masterfully made but not immediately arresting.

Simons' debut at Dior earlier that week, however, signalled the rise of a new power in Paris. Dior, for so long at the forefront of fashionable fantasy by sheer dint of Galliano's brain, had lagged without anyone to steer the ship: what Simons presented, in elegantly worked holographic organdie that made up wrapped tops, tunics and delicately-printed bell skirts in homage to the founder's New Look line, was a restrained but feminine vision – one that entranced critics and cool kids, but also this label's decisively bourgeois fan base of customers.

And Sander's return to her own label this autumn felt like another smooth transition, an evolution of what Simons had instigated in her absence, with a retro-futurist nod to the work of Pierre Cardin and André Courrèges in a palette of rust and midnight. That's right, not red and blue.

If that didn't make for a tense enough segue into autumn, the announcement that Maison Martin Margiela would be creating a capsule for H&M in November worked shoppers into a frenzy; it came on the back of a collaboration with Versace earlier in the year, as well as a capsule by JW Anderson for Topshop in what was a strong year on the high street, despite Philip Green's daughter Chloe (of Made in Chelsea fame) making her debut this spring as a footwear designer at – you guessed it – Topshop.

Finally, the strangest trend of the year: the wedge/trainer hybrids popularised by French designer Isabel Marant and now copied ubiquitously. They're wrong – terribly wrong – but somehow also just right (for another month, perhaps). And the biggest fashion mishap? Angelina Jolie's rogue leg on Oscar night, crooked at the perfect angle and totally preposterous for that.

But back to Marc Jacobs and his Louis Vuitton steam train – all aboard for 2013!