Fashion goes to the dark side this season

Fashion goes to the dark side this season


After obsessions with metallics, jewel tones, nude and navy - in the words of the late great Amy Winehouse – this season we go back to black. Each fashion 'cosmopolis' grouped its designers’ collective interpretation at the Fall 2012 collections last spring.

New York put forward a hard-edged, modern-retro femme fatale at Jenny Packham, Donna Karan and Parabal Gurung; London looked to the future through the eyes of Christopher Kane, Topshop Unique and Stella McCartney’s Evening Collection; Milan’s Fendi, Versace and Dolce & Gabanna fostered an opulent warrior; Paris was awash with structured leather rogues at YSL, DW by Kanye West, Givenchy and Gareth Pugh.

The reinvention of black borrows from the recent colour-blocking trend – but this season it’s all about texture-blocking. Layering is the key to this trend: fur, silks, brocade, leather, snake and croc, chunky knits, jersey, PV, denim, tailored wool, velvet, sequins and lace for a one-tone look that ain’t one note.

The essence of the look is a strong woman protecting herself from the elements - be it fierce weather or economic conditions. The return of hard wearing animal skins in leather and fur shows a shift toward investment pieces that will weather many a storm.

Designers are smart to present valuable collections. The ‘fashion’ consumer has become prudent and is more likely to go up a price-tag scale for garments that will last more than a year or two. Fast fashion has followed suit and upped its game, increasingly using natural over synthetic fibres.

Italian high fashion goes all-out artisan this winter, employing master techniques in embroidery and tannery to make their designs difficult to reproduce at a budget price-point - thus adding prestige, and creating demand in the salivating luxury markets in Russia and China.

Celebrities are already on board with Lady Gaga leading the charge with fur, feather and leather looks in recent months on the global fashion parade that is her ‘Born This Way Ball Tour’. Fellow popstars Rihanna and Cheryl Cole have shown favour to mixed leather and jersey ensembles.

Valentino’s exquisite medieval cardinal cut-out leather and crochet gowns won’t be easily copied but are the big hit of the early Fall red carpets in New York, LA and Venice. And who could forget Angelina Jolie’s leg-baring black velvet Versace at the Oscars.

On a budget, the high street has everything a gal need to capture the black texture-blocked look – leather peplum top, sequined baseball t-shirt and metallic bow belt from H&M. Topshop’s skinny jeans and lace sweetheart jumper; ‘20s style lace and feather cocktail dress, Givenchy-esque spat boots, and Valentino inspired studded bags at Zara; Reiss cropped leather cape and the essential leather skirt; a Chanel-inspired boucle knit cardigan at Mango; a Savida black-on-black leopard pencil skirt at Dunnes Stores.

This is good news for those of us with a trunk full of black in the attic. A few smart accessory buys such as a snakeskin belt, velvet opera gloves and an oversized patent leather clutch will bring you up to speed.

For the black-addicts out there - whether you’re a femme fatale, a modern gothic warrior, the flying nun, or a hot guitarist from the ‘Addicted To Love’ video – you can be safe in the knowledge that this season, you’re in.