Impressionism, Fashion & Modernity links art and fashion

In other parts of the world it might seem a stretch to turn a museum exhibition about one of the greatest periods in painting into a lesson in the history of couture, but not in the city that happens to be the world capital of both.

Welcome to “Impressionism, Fashion & Modernity,” on view through Jan. 20 at that marvellous former railway station, the Musée d’Orsay.

Showcasing 80 paintings by Impressionist masters (including Monet, Manet, Renoir) and some of their contemporaries from the early 1860s to the mid-1880s, this smart and sumptuous exhibition is an impressive co-venture between the d’Orsay and two North American partners, New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Art Institute of Chicago, each of which will present somewhat different versions of the exhibit in 2013.

In Paris, the show has a special magic that is in danger of being lost on its way across the Atlantic. That’s thanks to the witty and innovative way Toronto-born Robert Carsen has turned this into as high-spirited, dramatic and illuminating an experience as you could hope to have.

Linking artistic masterpieces with fashion trends of the same era, he takes us for a joyride as the wizards of both worlds compete to dazzle their society with knockout creations. Visitors are swept down a runway of cultural and social history while becoming intoxicated with splendid explosions of style and the exuberant mood of la Belle Epoque.

“By the time I got involved, the works of art had already been chosen by curators from the three museums involved and so had the title of the exhibit,” explains Carsen.

(He is better known as one of the world’s leading opera directors than as a museum maestro, but at the moment he is a creative force not just in the Impressionist show but in another Paris exhibit, about the depiction of Bohemians in art, currently at the Grand Palais.)

Guy Cogeval, the president of the Musée d’Orsay (and former director of Montreal’s Museum of Fine Arts), told Carsen: “These are the paintings. You choose the clothes.”

It was up to Carsen to come up with a design and decide how the paintings and the clothes should be presented in relation to one another.

“When I was invited to join the project, I didn’t think we could get all the period clothes and I didn’t like the idea of making copies,” said Carsen. “Luckily, we were able to find all those clothes.”

It helps that Carsen lives in Paris (though he works all over the world) and is intimately acquainted with its fashion world as well its opera, museum and theatre worlds. (The son of the late philanthropist Walter Carsen, he grew up in Toronto but left while still a student.)

Carsen persuaded the museum to add sections about accessories: perfume, gloves, fans, shoes, hats.

Immersing himself in the subject, Carsen discovered how fascinating this quarter-century period was. It coincided with the opening of department stores. And Cogeval gave Carsen huge spaces to work with.

The result: a constantly astonishing show with tremendous momentum. It is filled with delicious insights into how artists depicted the social history of the era as reflected in what the people in their paintings were wearing.

The upshot: while exploring the treasures of a great museum, you may also feel you’ve somehow landed in the display window of the world’s most exclusive department store. Many of the dresses on display here are genuine works of art. In the course of a walk-through, a visitor can learn a lot about the use of ribbons, buttons and bows, and become an expert in the evolution of undergarments such as corsets and crinolines.

The 80 oil paintings flow through nine large rooms. In two of those rooms, Carsen has created runways, using paintings instead of models.

Memorable paintings include Renoir’s La Loge, Monet’s Women in the Garden, Manet’s At the Milliner and (on loan from the Art Gallery of Ontario) James Tissot’s The Shop Girl.

An example of Carsen’s flourishes: a room featuring Manet paintings is decorated with a red carpet and an array of dining chairs, each with the name tag of a prominent person of the age. In his research, Carsen learned that the same chairs used by catwalks today are the ones seen in Impressionist paintings.

At the end of the show, runways flow into the vast, open gallery so that we end up in a green, airy garden where scantily clad young people cavort in parks and along river banks.

Different versions of this exhibition will be seen in New York starting in February and in Chicago next summer. Carsen will not work on the New York installation. He will bring his touch to Chicago, but it won’t be the same extravaganza he created for Paris.

Fashion Frenzy at Target + Neiman Marcus Holiday Pop-Up Shop

Forget about Black Friday and Cyber Monday. Many fashion-savvy shoppers have been counting down to the launch of the much-buzzed about Target + Neiman Marcus Holiday Collection.

The designer collaboration features over 50 limited-edition accessories, home goods and fashions from top American designers like Diane von Furstenberg, Jason Wu, Tory Burch and more.

Before the line hits stores nationwide on Dec. 1, New Yorkers can score the hot collection today at the retailers' one-day only pop-up shop. Doors open at 9 a.m. at 530 Fifth Ave in New York City.

" Good Morning America" got the exclusive first look at the pop-up shop at the preview event Wednesday night. The items range from $7.99 to $499.99, but most accessories come in at a gift-able price point: Tracy Reese's $39.99-set of four printed dessert plates, a Tory Burch lunch box for $19.99, to a Diane von Furstenberg printed yoga mat or lacquer jewelry box for $49.99.

Click here to see photos of the complete collection.
The Target and Neiman collaboration follows Target's enormous success with high-fashion designer collections at budget prices, including lines by Jason Wu and Missoni for Target, which instantly flew off of store shelves and sold out online. Fashionistas looking to score the limited-edition Missoni items crashed Target's website last fall and waited for hours in line.

Each shopper at the New York pop-up store will be limited to five total items this time.

Which other big names can you find on pop-up store shelves? Oscar de la Renta, Marc Jacobs, Carolina Herrera, Rag & Bone, Brian Atwood, Alice + Olivia, Proenza Schouler, and Marchesa round out the A-List designing roster and have cooked up a collection of accessories, home goods and fashions.

Fashion Blogger Of The Week: Peony Lim On Her Blogging Style And Mini Dachshund

Peony Lim is one of the chicest bloggers around. She first started her blog after some warm encouragement from street style photographers hanging around outside her university (luckily based at the home of British Fashion, Somerset House) and has just celebrated her second blogging birthday. The model and stylist recently appeared on the panel of our School of Grazia ‘Street Style, Trend Spotting and Photography’ masterclass where she dished out helpful advice on everything from lighting to posing for the camera. We love Lim's blog for it's mix of inspiring personal style posts, recipes and adorable pictures of her Miniature Dachshund Thumbelina...

Grazia Daily: How long have you been blogging?
Peony Lim: Just two years this month.

Grazia Daily: What made you decide to start your blog?
Peony Lim: Fate really. I didn't want to be an intern and I knew I wanted to work in fashion. I had met some street style photographers outside my university during fashion week (I was based at Somerset House) and they encouraged me to try blogging when I graduated.

Grazia Daily: Which subjects do you particularly love blogging about?
Peony Lim: Food, Fashion and Travel are my loves. Oh and my dog Thumbelina.

Grazia Daily: What’s been your highlight so far?
Peony Lim: Gosh making it a full time job has felt like living the dream.

Grazia Daily: Are there any particular perks of blogging? Do you get freebies or invited to events?
Peony Lim: Yes and yes, but I think the best thing is being creatively in control. Thats wonderful and rare.

Grazia Daily: Do you attend London Fashion Week?
Peony Lim: Yes, and New York Fashion Week and Paris Fashion Week.

Grazia Daily: What are your favourite brands?
Peony Lim: Hermes, Prada, Alexander McQueen, Balmain, and I love Zara on the highstreet.

Grazia Daily: Blog brag time - why should people read your blog?
Peony Lim: Awkward. I don't know. If you like Miniature Dachshunds, food and some classic clothes, give me a try. I promise you don't have to come back if you hate it!

Grazia Daily: What advice do you have for anyone starting a blog?
Peony Lim: A great camera and some one who knows how to use it goes along way. Also be yourself. You can't be anything 100% better than anyone else!

Grazia Daily: Which other fashion blogs do you love?
Peony Lim: Vanessa Jackman and Food Gawker to find new food blogs.

iD showcases fresh fashion talent

Vibrant colour and design, hand-dyed wool, tapestry, leather work, and digital printing are just some of the innovative techniques used by graduates showing at next year’s iD Dunedin Fashion Week.

Five exceptional graduate collections from the Otago Polytechnic School of Design have been selected from a field of 25 on display at the recent Collections 12 runway show to launch their careers at the 2013 iD Dunedin Fashion Show on Friday 15 March and Saturday 16 March 2013.

Rakel Blomsterberg, 26 (Iceland), Olivia Bloxham, 20 (Timaru), Samuel Ralph, 21 (Invercargill), Tansy Morris, 23 (Dunedin) and Samantha O’Reilly, 22 (New Plymouth) will showcase their final-year collections alongside high-profile New Zealand fashion designers, and emerging international designers. Since 2002, the event has included a special section for graduate designers - attracting top talent from Dunedin’s prestigious fashion school, with many talented graduates going on to high flying fashion careers through gaining professional runway experience and exposure as part of iD Fashion Week.

Three of the graduates - Blomsterberg, Bloxham and Ralph - were also part of the six-strong fashion student contingent chosen to show at the prominent Shanghai Fashion Week in October.

The graduate selection panel was comprised of: Tim Pollock (Dunedin Public Art Gallery), Margi Robertson, (Nom-D) and Charmaine Reveley (fashion designer).

Margi Robertson, creative director of Nom-D was impressed by this year’s graduating class, saying it was wonderful to see the progress made year on year by Otago Polytechnic graduates.

"Each year the collections seem to be more advanced and presented in such a professional manner without compromising on personal creativity," she says.

Dr Margo Barton, Otago Polytechnic’s School of Design academic leader and principal lecturer (Fashion), says this year’s crop of graduates were incredibly talented and she was looking forward to seeing them at iD.

"Colour is back - in fact, there is nearly no black in this year's selection. New technology combines with traditional techniques to allow these 2012 graduates to each tell their own fashion stories.

Selecting from a catwalk show is a real challenge. You respond to the drama and spectacle in front of you, and it is exactly the right place to select the collections which would create just the right excitement for the iD Dunedin railway show. I can imagine that the selectors had a terrible time reducing their selections to five, as this year was an extremely high achieving one."

Experience fusion of fashion, music at IRFW

New Delhi, Nov 26 (IANS) With as many as 30 shows, presence of international names including socialite Paris Hilton and the four−day festival divided into three main areas, the second edition of India Resort Fashion Week (IRFW) in Goa promises to set new trends and benchmarks in the world of fashion with its second season.

"IRFW is a three−dimensional concept which believes in providing the complete experiential arenas of resort fashion, resort music and resort retail. All these three arenas have been conceptualised very seriously," Pallav Ojha, director, IRFW told IANS.

The fashion event, to be held Nov 28 to Dec 1, has been divided into three main areas − The Fashion Show, The Fashion Village and The Music Festival.

The India Resort Fashion Village, a retail venue, will be open to all.

The fest this year will give the fashion aficionados a musical experience too, says Nidhi Choudhary, managing director of IRFW.

SandKastle, a beach music festival, will see a robust line up of international and Indian artists perform for the attendees. The line−up includes Paris Hilton, who will go behind the console as a disc jockey (DJ) at IRFW this year.

"Music adds charisma to the garment. It brings out the character of the clothing, created by the designer. At IRFW, we are leveraging the platform of fashion and inviting music lovers from across the world to witness the essence of this fusion," said Choudhary.

The fashion event is scheduled to take place at Goa's popular Candolim beach this year unlike the last season where only the finale took place at Marbela Beach Resort, Morjim and the rest of the shows took place inside hotel Grand Hyatt.

The first edition witnessed 15 designers showcasing their talent, but the second edition has a lot more to offer for its patrons. A few confirmed designers showcasing their work are Narendra Kumar, Neeta Lulla, Arjun and Anjalee Kapoor, Pria Kataaria Puri, James Ferreira, Falguni and Shane Peacock, Rocky S, Babita Malkani and Riyaz Gangji.

Puri feels it is a unique and brilliant platform between the clutter of fashion weeks in India.
"Our country is known for its resort fashion the world over, and having an official resort week encourages international buyers to come down here and explore," Puri told IANS.

Added Gangji: "Destination weddings are in vogue across globe hence the demand for resort wear is humongous. IRFW as a platform provides best ambience to the designers like us to express ourselves better and ingeniously."

Even foreign designers and artists are set to create a flutter with their work and shows. Some of these names are Sidney Samson, Buffer, Viktoria, Fabio and Moon, David Morales, Audiomatic and Robbie Rivera.

A night of fashion and charity at the Gawad Kalinga Hope Ball

It was a night of fashion and charity on November 9  when the country’s elite gathered at the Peninsula Manila in their stunning barongs, tuxedos and gowns for the third Gawad Kalinga (GK) Hope Ball.

Spearheaded by the Fashion and Design Council of the Philippines, in-demand designers like JC Buendia, Rajo Laurel, and Randy Ortiz celebrated Philippine fashion with a memorable fashion show in which notable names in the country—for the night, called "GK Champions"—played designers' muses.

“For the Hope Ball, FDCP designers were matched with GK Champions who agreed to model. Part of the fee for the gowns and barongs went to the GK,” said FDCP president JC Buendia.

Among the GK Champions was athlete Armand Del Rosario, who walked the runway in a simple Rajo Laurel-designed barong Tagalog.

“The muses are big-hearted GK Champions who were brave enough to model and willing to pay the cost of the garments they're modeling. Designers were matched to the styles and personalities of the champions,” said Buendia.

The designer added that “the clothes presented at the ball each had fabric and/or handiwork done by the various communities.”

Dr. Karen Yabut–Castillo walked the runway in a JC Buendia terno.
Among the stand-out pieces was JC Buendia’s elegant pink mermaid-cut terno with traditional butterfly sleeves made for Dr. Karen Yabut-Castillo. The gown is simple and sophisticated, with some beading on the skirt.

Yabut-Castillo accessorized it with simple dangling earrings that matched her ring, and completed her efforlessly elegant look with a loose '50s bun.

Buendia also designed Lia Andrea Ramos’ two-piece ensemble—a modern, feminine interpretation of a barong paired with a long pleated black skirt. The look exuded glamour and power.

Another standout piece is a red Randy Ortiz number modeled by Salome Uy, with a sheer top and a dramatic take on a peplum skirt.

Ortiz designed a cute little ribbon detail on the waist and made the skirt long with a heavy train.

Furthermore, Uy completed her look with a loose ponytail, light makeup, and dangling earrings.

Part of the fashion show's proceeds will go to the building of relocation sites that is GK’s mission to restore Intramuros, Manila's old Walled City.

Topshop and Topman open first store in South Africa

Famed fashion retailers Topshop and Topman have opened an African flagship in Johannesburg.

Topshop and Topman launched their first stores in Africa on November 21, with a lavish bash in the South African financial capital.

A fresh new 950 square meter flagship store located in Protea Court in Sandton City houses all of the sibling brands' latest styles under one roof. Back in July 2012, a successful pop-up store in Cape Town (in association with concept store Unknown Union), whetted the appetites of South Africa's style set. Mary Homer, managing director for Topshop said a permanent store was the obvious solution: "we've wanted to offer our full Topshop retail experience to the fashion conscious South African customer for a long time."
South Africa is the 37th country market of the British fashion brand, which has more than 700 stores worldwide.

Famed for helping to establish the trend for collaborations between high fashion and the high street, Topshop regularly works with designers including Christopher Kane, Meadham Kirchoff, Hussein Chalayan, Richard Nicoll and Mary Katranzou. The brand has also collaborated with fashion icon Kate Moss who has designed a number of her 'Kate Moss for Topshop' lines.

Topshop's younger brother, Topman, boasts stores in 70 cities worldwide, stretching across 20 countries. Arcadia Group has plans for a second Johannesburg store, and a permanent Cape Town location in the new year.

Victoria Beckham And Anna Wintour Join Forces To Raise Money For Hurricane Sandy Victims

Fashion queens Victoria Beckham and Anna Wintour have joined forces to help raise money for Hurricane Sandy relief efforts, with the Council of Fashion Designers and US Vogue teaming up.

Famous fashion figures will show their support for the victims of the tragic Hurricane Sandy which swept New York and left devastation behind, with the likes of Hollywood actress Gwyneth Paltrow, US Vogue Editor Anna Wintour and fashion designer Victoria Beckham all showing face.

And whilst an array of prominent fashionistas in the industry have stepped up to pledge financial aid to support the relief effort, the CFDA and US Vogue publication have gone one step further by planning to host a special fundraising event.

The Trade Association, headed by fashion designer Diane von Furstenburg, has teamed up with luxury auction website Charitybuzz.com to help launch the collective fashion industry fundraiser Fashion for Sandy Relief.

The first goody up for auction is the chance to attend a top fashion show with Anna Wintour herself and her team of Vogue editors, as well as a tour of the famous magazine's offices and a luxury goody bag full of Vogue memorabilia.

Other experiences include a meet and greet with Victoria Beckham, a week at one of Tommy Hilfiger's private estates and lunch with Diane Von Fursteburg, lunch with Christian Louboutin and a free signed pair of his famous red-soled shoes.

And it's not all about fashion as other sporting, theatre and movie related experiences will be up for auction as well – with all money raised going towards the Mayor's Fund to Advance New York City.
Speaking of the fashion fundraising event, Diane von Furstenburg stated: ''Sandy has hit us hard here at home,'' Maboot reports.

''It is devastating to see so many friends and neighbours affected. As we did for Haiti and Japan, our industry has come together to raise funds with Fashion for Sandy Relief,'' she added.

British Fashion Awards 2012: Manolo Blahnik Wins Outstanding Achievement Award

Big whoops to you, Mr Blahnik! This morning, the British Fashion Council have announced that the shoe master will receive the Outstanding Achievement Award at this year’s British Fashion Awards, due to take place at the Savoy Hotel on Tuesday, 27th November (that's less than a week, peeps).

This isn't any old award - oh no. According to the BFC, this is a 'special award' that is one of the most significant of the evening and 'celebrates and recognises one designer, who throughout their career, has made an impact on the global fashion industry.' Last year, National Treasure Sir Paul Smith picked up the accolade and previous winners include the likes of John Galliano, Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen. The award for Outstanding Achievement in Fashion was voted for by a panel of leading internationally acclaimed journalists and retailers to pay tribute to Manolo’s extraordinary career and contribution to the British and global fashion industry.

Indeed, Manolo Blahnik is well and truly enshrined as an icon in the halls of luxury fashion history with his elegant, perfectly-made shoes being worn by everyone from Carine Roitfeld and Carrie Bradshaw in Sex and the City to Marge Simpson. And let's not forget Kate Moss AND Bella Swan wore Manolos on their wedding days.

It all began back in 1968 when the designer moved to London to work at fashion boutique Zapata. Diana Vreeland championed his footwear designs but it was in 1972 when he got his big break and Ossie Clark invited him to create shoes for his catwalk show. He stayed true to his stiletto creations in contrast to the mainstream chunky platform boots of the '70s and now owns boutiques across the globe, from Las Vegas to Dubai. No wonder Madonna described his heels as 'better than sex'.

Rewind to 2011 and Manolo was producing an eco shoe made out of old fish skin. Yes, we faltered slightly too, but they really are gorgeous. The range of sustainable shoes was part of a collaboration US-based eco-designer Marcia Patmos who has been designing sustainable clothes since the late '90s. And after years of towering platforms dominating the fashion landscape, during which time Manolo never once bowed to popular opinion and created super elevated ones himself, his thin soled, pointy toed spindle-heeled pumps steamed straight to the top of the Autumn Winter 2011 wish lists. In October last year, we reported that his dainty kicks were selling out all over New York City.

As for his successes this year, footwear fans rejoiced when Manolo teamed up with Kurt Geiger to launch a boutique in Harrods and Liberty (our bank balance was not so happy). Then Mr Manolo coaxed VB out of her Louboutin heels and into a pair of flat buckled Monk shoes. The designer created the flats for Lady Beckham's Spring Summer 2013 mainline collection, convincing us that androgynous is the new shoe-du-jour.

Fashion Flash: Michael Kors Critiques The First Lady, Ralph Lauren Provides Sandy Relief

Rodeo Drive Resale, premier reseller of upscale clothing and accessories, recaps the latest in designer fashion, runway news and celebrity style.

To help luxury lovers stay informed on the latest in upscale style and Hollywood happenings, Rodeo Drive Resale, premier reseller of 100% authentic St. John Knits, Louis Vuitton handbags, and Tiffany & Co. accessories, looks at the latest happenings in the world of upscale fashion and celebrity style.

MICHELLE OBAMA, BY MICHAEL KORS: “Mrs. Obama looked chic and elegant as always on Election Night,” Famed designer Michael Kors said in an email to the Associated Press. “My dress, with its strong color, clean lines and feminine silhouette, has all the elements that have become a part of the trademark style of our first lady.” The First Lady donned a Michael Kors magenta silk chine pin-tucked dress on Tuesday, November 07, 2012, as she joined her husband onstage as he celebrated his presidential victory. Michelle, not one to let a good piece go to waste, has worn the dress twice before.

ST. JOHN KNITS ANNOUNCES BIG SALE: Fashion favorite St. John Knits recently announced a special sale, offering up to 40% off their select fall fashions. The sale is being offered online and off. St. John lovers that prefer the more traditional look of the iconic label are invited to visit shopRDR.com, the world’s largest reseller of St. John Knits. There, shoppers can find classic pieces from the label’s collection, all guaranteed authentic and offered at an amazing price.

RALPH LAUREN AIDS IN SANDY RELIEF: World-famous designer Ralph Lauren is doing his part to assist in the rebuilding efforts of those affected by Hurricane Sandy. According to a November 6 story posted on Examiner.com, Lauren has pledged $2 million dollars, which will be split between the American Red Cross Disaster Relief Fund, the Mayor's Fund to Advance New York City and the Robin Hood Relief Fund. He will also donate the money to states that need rebuilding like Connecticut and New Jersey.

“I'm a born and bred New Yorker,” Lauren said. “I raised my family here and started my business here. The Tri-State area is home to thousands of our employees and our customers and we have a special and personal relationship with the affected areas. We want to support the selfless work of so many agencies, professionals and volunteers and hope that these donations will make it easier for our cities to rebuild and recover.”

Rodeo Drive Resale (shopRDR.com) has built a reputation of providing amazing deals on handbags, clothing and accessories from the top designers of upscale fashion. The company offers a 100% guarantee of authenticity on each item sold, and works daily with a network of clients looking to buy, sell, or for consignment of their luxury goods.

Box sets fashion

A similar phenomenon is observed in the current teen series Gossip Girl. When the television series premiered in 2007, it garnered quite a following. The show, which revolves around the social intrigues of a group of fashionably attired Manhattan private school teens, attracted not just teenage viewers but also women in their twenties who tuned in for the plot as much as they did for style tips from the extravagant wardrobes of the stars, put together by costume designer Eric Daman.

Crested blazers, layered polo shirts, kilts and duelling plaids had never looked more chic. Viewers were also taken by the distinctive styles of Serena van der Woodsen (Blake Lively) and her haute bohemian ensembles, or the fussier look of Blair Waldorf (Leighton Meester) and her frilly headband, brooches, pearls, scarves, colourful blazers and patent leather pumps. Let us also not forget the bevy of gorgeous couture gowns that the girls don when the occasion calls for it in the show.

The New York Times reported in 2008 that Gossip Girl is the first show to have been conceived in part as a "fashion marketing vehicle". It quotes Daman as saying, "We tried to launch trends from the get-go."
It certainly succeeded in doing that as the series ignited a resurgence of ritzy, preppy and collegiate looks in the spring/summer 2008 fashion season, with labels including Marc by Marc Jacobs, Henry Holland and Ruffian coming out with punk, schoolgirl styles.

Another show that has brought the schoolgirl look or "geek chic" to the fore is the musical series Glee. In particular are Rachel Berry's outfits, which mix preppy staples like pleated skirts in plaid or stripes with argyle sweater vests, tall socks and sweaters with quirky details, and always with a small sling bag to match. This autumn/winter fashion season, we see once again a revival of schoolgirl styles: varsity jackets, buttoned-up shirts and layered under knits, tartan or plaid, and ankle, knee-high or thigh-high socks under loafers or brogues are seen at Edun, DSquared2, LAMB and Lauren Moffatt.

But before Rachel Berry, there was one who truly epitomised the geek-chic style: Betty Suarez, the titular character of the Ugly Betty series, known for her clashing layers, patterns and combinations that make the fashion-conscious wince. As over-exaggerated as her look may have been — her wardrobe was courtesy of costume designers Patricia Field and Eduardo Castro — it was the muse for Marc Jacobs and Miuccia Prada, who both love clashing, 1970s-style prints and have created similar designs. Mismatched patterns were a huge trend in spring/summer this year, seen at D&G, Diane von Furstenberg, Anna Sui and Erdem, among others. The trend continues this autumn/winter, particularly at Prada, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu and Just Cavalli.

The reigning television series of fashion inspiration is Mad Men, which is in its sixth season and is one of the most influential shows on television right now. Ever since the first season premiered in 2007, the sleek ensembles of its male characters and the oh-so-feminine and demure frocks of its female leads by costume designer Janie Bryant have led to a resurrection of 1950s and 1960s styles on the runway.

Nostalgic fashion dominated the silhouettes of the collections from Louis Vuitton and Prada a few seasons ago, and it seems that designers are not done with referencing looks from this elegant period of fashion history. This year's spring/summer fashion afforded many such retro-inspired looks from the likes of Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler, Valentino, Jil Sander and Rochas, to name but a few, and the autumn/winter collections from Dior and Lanvin also reference Mad Men.

Another nostalgic fashion throwback this past spring/summer season was the flapper style of the 1920s, seen in the HBO series Boardwalk Empire, which follows the adventures of corrupt county treasurer Enoch "Nucky" Thompson in Atlantic City in the 1920s. Fashion labels from Gucci, Etro and Ralph Lauren to Jill Stuart and Roberto Cavalli this past spring/summer season carried a variety of looks with drop-waist silhouettes that defined the dresses from this era.

For the current autumn/winter season, a number of collections reference the English sartorial sense of Downton Abbey, a series set in the early 1900s about the lives of the aristocratic Crawley family and its servants. Ralph Lauren even presented his English countryside-inspired styles at fashion week to the soundtrack of the television series. His collection had corduroy jackets and jodhpurs, tweedy plus-fours, Fair Isle knits, houndstooth coats and bowler hats.

Over at Louis Vuitton, there are elbow-length gloves, oversized hats and buttoned-up coats, while at Burberry Prorsum, it is Downton Abbey meets downtown chic with peplum jackets, tweedy urchin caps and dainty lace-up ankle boots.

Fashion chief Lord Alliance of Manchester urges shops to invest in UK clothing

Fashion mogul Lord Alliance of Manchester has warned that retailers who fail to invest in domestic manufacturing are ‘doomed’.

Price rises in China have undermined the advantage of buying from Far Eastern factories and rapidly changing internet-led fashion demands mean retailers need to source clothes from closer to home to keep up with trends, he said.

Alliance’s £752 million internet shopping firm N Brown, whose brands include Simply Be, has re-established its UK manufacturing base over two years to cut supply times and the need for discounts.

‘Businesses need to realise their future depends on serving the customer, and you cannot serve the customer with clothing that is 12 months old,’ he said. ‘If you think you can survive doing that, forget it, you’re doomed.’

It can take six months for clothes to be made and delivered and up to 12 months if the time taken to buy dyes and raw materials is added. Arcadia chief Sir Philip Green, who releases his latest profit figures this week, has increased his use of UK factories in the past year by a fifth to 47.

Asda’s clothing boss Andrew Moore also said the store had increased UK production from one to five factories to respond to the latest trends. That supported a push in lingerie and nightwear over the past year that helped double sales.

UK retailers moved the vast majority of clothing production abroad more than a decade ago to make use of cheap labour. But attempts have been made to revitalise home-grown industry. Manchester City Council has set up a centre for excellence for the textiles industry, led by former Rochdale MP Lorna Fitzsimons.

Marks & Spencer has increased UK production in clothing and home products by 20 per cent to £250 million over five years.

Fashion Designer Liz Lange and Jane Wagman Launch Liz + Jane Apparel Collection Exclusively on OpenSky

Sisters and co-editors in chief of Shopafrolic.com, renowned maternity designer Liz Lange and graphic designer Jane Wagman launch their first fashion collaboration on OpenSky.com. The duo has teamed up with The Jump Apparel Group on a collection of five holiday dresses that will be available under the Liz + Jane label starting today exclusively on the social shopping site.

"Every woman needs chic affordable dresses in her wardrobe arsenal for holiday or any day. Don't get caught with nothing to wear," said Liz Lange. "We worked hard to ensure that there were styles that worked for every body type. Our dresses are flattering and comfy," said Jane Wagman.

OpenSky.com is a social shopping marketplace that helps people discover, buy and share unique goods that match their individual taste. Members create their own shopping circle by connecting to their friends and their choice of the site's industry insiders in food, healthy living, fashion, beauty, home decor and electronics to create a personalized shopping experience. As "Insiders" on OpenSky, Liz and Jane have been curating collections of fashion and accessories for members of the site for more than a year.

"Liz and Jane are incredibly connected to their shoppers on OpenSky, they know what they love," said Simon Black, OpenSky's Chief Merchandising Officer. "We're excited to see how their shoppers react to the Liz + Jane label."

The launch of Liz + Jane marks the first time the pair will offer their fans on the site something under their own brand. There are five different styles available each named for a fashion icon: Marilyn - a sequined cap sleeve party dress with built in bra in gunmetal gray ($99), Diana - a black lace one-shoulder, knee-length dress with cream underlay ($89), Michelle -- a magenta shift dress with embellished beaded collar ($69), Georgina - a black cocktail dress with beaded accents on the cuff and hemline ($59) and Audrey - a black dress with lace insets and a bow detail at the waist ($89). Additional styles will roll out beginning in Spring 2013.

Philanthropy in Fashion

As Ali Hewson and her husband Bono stood with the fashion entrepreneur Renzo Rosso on an African trip earlier this year, the raw white cotton in the hands of the Diesel founder led to an epiphany.

 Why not create a collaboration among three people who believe passionately in the promise of Africa?

This week the tangible results of that trip will take the fashion for philanthropy fast forward, into a smart business. Bono, a persistent and vocal supporter of help for Africa going back more than 25 years, and his wife are expanding the reach of Edun, the fashion company they set up in 2005.

Through a partnership with Mr. Rosso, founder of the Diesel group, Edun products, sourced or made entirely in Africa, will be sold in Diesel stores under an Edun+Diesel label.

“Bono and I have known Renzo Rosso for over 10 years,” Ms. Hewson said. “When we decided to travel to Africa to visit both Renzo’s Millennium Village in Mali and our own cotton farming program in northern Uganda, we realized that the result would be both an amazing journey and a collaboration resulting in a line of beautiful clothes made from our cotton and 100 percent made in Africa.”

Bono himself is reticent about the overall subject of “Africa rising” and says that he would rather leave it to his African team to discuss aid to the continent in a wider context.

“There is a bit of a minefield here which you can choose to ignore. You don’t have to be an expert on this stuff,” the U2 musician said of his long-term support to African countries.

Bono’s attitude is that Africa is not a poor continent, but rich in everything: people, land, diversity — and especially young people, with 60 percent of its population younger than 25 years old.

“In my experience, the entrepreneurial spirit has always been alive and kicking. In tough circumstances of extreme poverty, the survival instinct is an innovative one,” he said, adding that new technology had brought new opportunities to the continent, like farmers managing their money via smartphone applications.

“People want control over their own destiny. You can see it in the Arab Spring, you can see it on college campuses, you can see it in on the streets of Nairobi,” he continued. “Economists predict that between 2010 and 2015, 7 of the 10 fastest-growing economies in the world will be there. For those who think the 21st century will belong to China, look where the Chinese are: They’re in Africa!”

Bono’s active participation in founding Edun puts him and Ms. Hewson in a strong position to follow the code expressed by Ban Ki-moon, the U.N. secretary general: “Africa does not need charity, it needs investments and partnership.”

While the entire Edun+Diesel line will be made in Africa, that goal has not been easy for Edun itself to achieve, although Ms. Hewson plans for 40 percent of its men’s and women’s ranges to be made in Africa in 2013.

The company, which sold a 49 percent stake to the luxury conglomerate LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton in 2009, manufactures its clothing in a variety of countries including China, Eritrea, Kenya, Madagascar, Morocco, Tanzania, Tunisia and Uganda.

Mr. Rosso is as plainspoken as Bono when he talks about Africa and his enthusiasm for the new partnership. His Only the Brave Foundation is philanthropic, but he says the African projects are founded on good business sense.

“I think working in Africa is both brave and smart: Brave because we are currently investing our time and money in building know-how in these parts of the world; and smart because Africa is the next big market, as the Chinese have already understood before anyone else,” he said. “I don’t feel I am doing it for philanthropy. We are doing it to generate sustainable development.”

The foundation’s initiatives, in spite of the recent political coup in Mali that has destabilized the country, have included building a secondary school with a dormitory for students from remote villages, laboratories used for teaching job skills and other modern facilities.

“Africa is a rich continent: rich in resources, rich in culture, rich in the ambition to grow permanently” out of its current problems, said the Italian entrepreneur, who, in addition to the Diesel jeans lines, also owns the upscale brands of Maison Martin Margiela and Viktor & Rolf as well as the production specialist Staff International, which has licenses for labels like DSquared2 and Just Cavalli.

 Mr. Rosso says that he wants the fashion industry not only to bring trade to Africa, but also to channel and give visibility to the continent’s creativity in style, fabric graphic design and craftsmanship.

Why this new collaboration? Ms. Hewson says the benefits will be a “two-way street”: Edun’s Conservation Cotton Initiative in Uganda will be alongside Diesel denim product skills, as well as the global commercial clout of the Diesel brand.

To all three, the initiative therefore is a small, but significant, part of a bigger picture.

As Mr. Rosso puts it: “With this project we want to show to consumers and to the industry alike, that it is indeed possible to source, produce and generate sustainable trade — and, hence, development — in Africa.”

While admitting that “there are kinks in any industry that need ironing out,” Ms. Hewson’s commitment to Edun, along with that of her husband, is to create “great clothes,” creating new jobs and serving consumers along the way.

“We are a tiny company with big ambitions — one of which was to persuade some of the fashion heavyweights to take more interest in this part of the world,” she said. “The business environment is getting easier in many places, and the more people and companies that show interest, the quicker that will change.”

When Lauren Bush, a scion of the Bush political family, was a college student in 2003, she traveled with the U.N. World Food Program as an honorary spokeswoman.

From her understanding of the importance of U.N. school lunches, in both feeding children and enticing them to school, came her current project: FEED.

“I would return from these travels to Latin America, Africa and Asia always inspired to get more people — especially young people — involved,” said Lauren Bush Lauren, as she became when she married David Lauren of the Ralph Lauren family in 2011.

Finding it frustrating that world hunger seemed both an overwhelming and a faraway issue, she was determined to act.

“I had an ‘aha’ moment and came up with the FEED bag as a way for consumers to give back in a tangible and meaningful way,” she says.

With help from the fashion industry, Ms. Bush Lauren produced a burlap and organic cotton bag that went on sale through Amazon in 2007. The FEED Web site now sells it for $80, which will provide school meals for a child for a year.

“I designed it to look like the bags of food rations I saw being distributed. I wanted the aesthetic to be connected with the cause — very industrial and utilitarian,” she said.

Five years on, 60 million school meals have been bought through partnerships with Bergdorf Goodman, Tory Burch, Clarins, DKNY, Gap, Godiva, Pottery Barn and, of course, Ralph Lauren.

“I love being an entrepreneur,” the designer said, explaining that while 20 percent of her time was spent speaking for the cause, the rest was a hands-on involvement with design, communication and partnerships. And, in creating the apparel and accessories that also are sold on the FEED Web site, she said, “We are able not only to give meals, but to support artisans’ livelihoods.”

“The combination of business, fashion and philanthropy is a powerful one,” she continued. “And when done right can make a huge difference in the world.”

They’re All Playing the Game

THE fashion trade, when you get down to it, is just an endless competition. New designers compete to break through. Older designers compete to stay on top. Models compete to walk the best runways. Party reporters compete to gather the most trivia.

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So it was on Tuesday night in West Chelsea, where a wondrous display of fashion players populated a large gallery space for the annual CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund dinner, which is itself the culmination of a competition for emerging designers trying to win the industry’s support.

Moving through the crowd, one could learn all sorts of little things: Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the Proenza Schouler designers, are thinking of moving to Fort Greene in Brooklyn. Chanel Iman is recently single. Devi Kroell has dyed her hair a color she called “rose gold.” Victoria Bartlett is suing her plumber. Alexa Chung is secretly a great rapper, fluent in early-century Nelly.

“I’m just here for the chicken potpie,” joked Christina Ricci, wearing a midriff-baring dress by Richard Chai and referring to the evening’s traditional menu, selected by Anna Wintour for its one-plate efficiency. That, and comfort food helps on a night that, while fabulous for most guests, is full of anxiety for the designers who were competing for the prize.

Does it ever get easier? Even at the grown-up tables, the designers were stressed. Tory Burch was a trooper when faced with dinner conversation that kept returning to the he-sued-she-sued legal battle with her former husband, Chris Burch, over their respective retail brands.

“We don’t want to read any more about Tory and Chris,” Tommy Hilfiger said.

“Thank you, Tommy,” Ms. Burch said. “I don’t want to read any more about it, either.”

Christopher Bailey, the Burberry designer, who gave a keynote address and was introduced by Chelsea Clinton, tried to calm everyone a bit, relaying his own experiences in an industry that can be brilliant, he said, “but also ridiculous.” He described his early days, and many long nights, working for Donna Karan, when a masseur would come around the office at 3 a.m., then “at 4 a.m., we’d all sit in a little circle and chat over fabrics, and then at 5 a.m., Demi Moore would come in for a fitting,” he said. “That was weird.”

Finally, Emma Stone, dressed in a Burberry peplum top and skirt, which she had covered for most of the evening with a blue coat, presented the awards. The runners-up were Jennifer Meyer Maguire, the jewelry designer married to the actor Tobey Maguire, and Tabitha Simmons, the footwear designer and Vogue contributor married to the photographer Craig McDean. The big winner was Greg Chait, the designer of the pricey cashmere line Elder Statesman, who is engaged to the actress Laura Ramsey. (Trivia!)

The awards come with cash, $300,000 for Mr. Chait and $100,000 each for the runners-up. But the real draw for the designers is the promise of mentorship and a leg up in the bigger competition — which, of course, is just business.

Auckland fashion label wins $10k export grant

An up-and-coming kiwi fashion label has been awarded a $10,000 grant to help its designers increase online exports and develop a global name.

Men's streetwear brand I Love Ugly was announced as the winner of the DHL Express Fashion Export Scholarship at an event in Auckland last night.

The prize, which has previously been won by Stolen Girlfriends Club, Twenty-seven Names, Nyne and Lonely Hearts, includes international freight to the value of $10,000, coaching in freight and logistics from DHL Express, a tailored export mentoring package from Fashion Industry New Zealand (FINZ) and an annual FINZ membership.

The scholarship is designed to identify and support the country's top emerging fashion exporter.

Auckland-based I Love Ugly presented a compelling submission to the competition, said DHL spokesperson Megan Wildermoth.

"They have a strong, strategic online presence that compliments their traditional retail offering, and with the fashion industry heading online, this approach will allow them to grow."


I Love Ugly's designers intend to use the prize to push their international exports and get the label's name out there, said marketing director Mo Kheir.

This is the first time online exporters have been eligible for the scholarship, which has been running for five years.

Fashion designer and judge Kate Sylvester said the brand had a solid vision.

"They know exactly what they want and what they have to do to achieve it.

"It's an aspirational brand that appeals to young consumers as well as the 35-40-year olds."

The brand represents the future of the fashion industry, said FINZ chairman Paul Blomfield.

"Their export success to date has been achieved using online combined with a
comprehensive interactive multi-media approach to the business which is refreshing."

Blomfield said the designers had been strategic in their export focus.

"It is very important for the industry that new fashion companies make that big step into export and are successful at it."

'Fashion icon' Charles a hit with N.Zealand crowds

Britain's Prince Charles joked that he was a "fashion icon" in his New Zealand wool suit Monday but politely deflected a cheeky suggestion he would look good in a pair of Speedo swimming briefs.

The heir to the throne and his wife Camilla braved wet weather to greet hundred of wellwishers in Auckland on the final leg of a Pacific tour to mark Queen Elizabeth II's diamond jubilee.

The rain failed to dampen the enthusiasm of the crowd, some of whom had queued for hours to catch a glimpse of the royals.

Charles and Camilla also visited the city's Millennium Institute sports centre, where they met Olympians from the recent London Games and members of the New Zealand Warriors rugby league team.

Local woman Rachael Jones, in the centre's pool for her daily dip, said she was caught unawares when the royals appeared and immediately apologised to Camilla for not being able to curtsey in the water.

"I told (Charles) he would look good in a pair of Speedos," she told reporters. "He said he'd have to hit the treadmill first. He laughed, he thought it was quite funny."

She said Charles and Camilla probably had the impression that "Gosh, these colonials are a little strange".

After a trip over Auckland harbour on a Coast Guard boat, Charles watched sheep shearers at work at a wool exhibition and spoke at length about his efforts to promote the natural fibre, a major New Zealand export.

"According to GQ magazine I am a fashion icon, so I just wanted you to know that I'm wearing some very, very smart gents' natty New Zealand wool," he said, gesturing to his light grey pinstripe suit.

It is the seventh time Charles has visited New Zealand -- most recently in 2005 -- and a first time for Camilla.

The pair, who have also toured Papua New Guinea and Australia on their Southern Hemisphere foray, have a rest day Tuesday before moving to Wellington.

While in the capital, they will view props and sets from director Peter Jackson's locally produced "The Hobbit" movies and Charles will celebrate his 64th birthday.

The trip ends Friday in Christchurch, whose residents are still recovering after a catastrophic earthquake last year claimed 185 lives.

Prince Charles (R) tries making a wool rug during a Shear Brilliance wool promotion in Auckland on November 12. "According to GQ magazine I am a fashion icon, so I just wanted you to know that I'm wearing some very, very smart gents' natty New Zealand wool," he joked.

Prince Charles (L) chats with swimmers at the Millenium Sports Institute in Auckland on November 12. "I told (Charles) he would look good in a pair of Speedos," local woman Rachael Jones told reporters.

Prince Charles (R) and his wife Camilla greets wellwishers after a visit to the Millennium Sports Institute, where they met Olympians from the recent London Games and members of the New Zealand Warriors rugby league team.

Author Tom Wolfe, fashion designer Isabel Toledo set to open Miami Book Fair International

Book lovers and writers are meeting in South Florida for the annual Miami Book Fair International.
The fair opened Sunday with a presentation by Tom Wolfe, whose latest novel, "Back to Blood," is set in Miami. Cuban-American fashion designer Isabel Toledo also was scheduled to discuss her memoir Sunday night.

The fair runs through Nov. 18 at Miami Dade College. Other notable writers scheduled to speak at the fair in downtown Miami include National Book Awards finalists Junot Diaz and Robert Caro, The New Yorker's Adam Gopnik, the "Goosebumps" series author R. L. Stine, social critic Camille Paglia and Anne Lamott.

Send Us Your Questions for Fashion’s Most Powerful Leaders

Send Us Your Questions for Fashion’s Most Powerful Leaders

In the glittering world of fashion, caring about improving the lot of millions of people mired in poverty in the developing world has become increasingly, well, fashionable.

On Nov. 15 and 16 in Rome, the IHT’s fashion editor, Suzy Menkes, will convene the good and the great of the fashion and design industries at the annual IHT luxury conference, the confab that brings together hundreds of power brokers and the media who cover the trillion-dollar-a-year global fashion business.

The theme of the conference this year is “The Promise of Africa: The Power of the Mediterranean.” The theme encompasses the aspects of the Mediterranean as a cauldron of creativity where influences and motifs are shared, exchanged, altered and incorporated. But it also seeks to address issues of development, poverty reduction and social responsibility: what fashion, with its well-heeled producers and consumers, owes the world, especially the developing world — and especially Africa, as the continent’s contributions of style, vibrancy and resilience are finally being acknowledged.

That’s where you come in. Whether you have a question about fashion style or global development substance, we want to hear from you in the comments below.

We’ll be livestreaming three conference sessions on Rendezvous:

At about 9:15 CET on Thursday: “Handmade in Africa”: Suzy will lead a Q&A with Simone Cipriani, the driving force behind the Ethical Fashion Initiative at the International Trade Center in Geneva. (The I.T.C. is a joint body of the United Nations and the World Trade Organization.)

“I am passionate, I am Italian, I roar like a lion,” Mr. Cipriani told Suzy in an article in September, as they drove up Kenya’s Great Rift Valley. “The essence of the I.T.C. work is summed up in a single phrase: ‘Not Charity. Just Work.’ ” Suzy wrote.

The goal is to join marginalized communities to the global (and lucrative) fashion chain.

“Connecting ‘the world’s most marginalised people to the top of fashion’s value chain for mutual benefit,’ it enables communities of artisans and micro-manufacturers — the majority of them women — to thrive in association with the talents of the fashion world by fostering local creativity, enabling female employment, and promoting gender equality in order to reduce extreme poverty, according to a detailed brochure published by the ITC this month,” the Fashion of Business website reported in July, 2011.

In the livestreaming session, Mr. Cipriani will talk about his vision for luxury goods produced in Africa for both “small craft” and mainstream brands, the challenges of creating sustainable business models, and the ITC’s ambitions for the future. During Q&A, he will be joined by Ilaria Venturini Fendi, the designer behind one of the companies engaged in manufacturing in Africa and empowering communities to transform their lives.

On Friday mid-morning, at about 10 CET : “Positive Change Through Fashion”: Suzy will interview Bono and his wife, Ali Hewson, co-founders of EDUN, a global fashion brand seeking to bring positive change through trading with Africa. In this session, the couple will discuss how EDUN shows that sustainable manufacturing is also good business.

And Friday afternoon, at about 4 CET: “Mia Roma!”: Frida Giannini, creative director of Gucci, and Giambattista Valli will wax poetic about the power of the Eternal City and how it has influenced the two very different Rome-raised designers.

So, what questions do you want Suzy to put to the leaders of the fashion world — whether about style or substance? And speaking of style vs. substance, do you believe that fashion can be sustainable and that development for the poorest in the world can go hand in hand with an industry whose greatest success is often built on consumption by the richest in the world?

Shanghai fashion delegation in Dunedin for cultural collaboration

10 Fashion students from Shanghai, China arrive in Dunedin this evening, fresh from showing with Otago Polytechnic Fashion Design students at the prestigious Shanghai Fashion Week last month.

That show will be recreated somewhat within this year’s special 21st anniversary edition of Otago Polytechnic’s end-of-year fashion show, Collections 12.

While in Dunedin, the students and four staff from the Shanghai University of Engineering Technology (SUES) will also continue a cultural collaboration that began in Shanghai last month: the Dunedin students’ outfits were photographed in some of Shanghai’s most interesting and iconic locales, and now the Shanghai students will have their garments photographed around Dunedin. Images from the sister cities will be compiled into a book, and the project will also form the basis of an academic paper.

"We are really excited to be able to host this delegation, after we were provided with such a fabulous experience in Shanghai," says Margo Barton. "Our strong relationship with the International Fashion Academy Paris at SUES has led to this exciting cultural exchange and collaboration, which is of immense benefit to all students and staff of the School of Design."

The on-location photo shoots will take place on Monday 12 and Tuesday 13 November.

Collections 12 takes place at 8.30pm on Friday 16 November at 102 Anzac Avenue (Former Display n Sell building). Tickets cost $50; and are available from Otago Polytechnic’s School of Design reception, 4th Floor, H Block, Corner Forth and Union Streets.

Burberry sales figures come up Rosie as model boosts fashion chain's profits

Her Midas touch was credited with boosting the fortunes of Marks & Spencer earlier this week.
Now Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, the Devon born model, has helped another British firm to beat the financial blues.
Luxury fashion retailer Burberry, which has used Miss Huntington-Whiteley as both a model and ambassador around the world, cheered the City with a better than expected sales performance yesterday.

The 25-year-old was unveiled as the face of the new perfume brand the Burberry Body earlier this year, with marketing shots showing her wearing a trademark trench coat and nothing else.
Earlier this week retail giant Marks and Spencer hailed the model’s luxury ‘Rosie’ lingerie range as a major success.
Her underwear collection was the fastest selling in the group’s history and the one shining element from a set of distinctly grey  sales statistics from M&S.
Miss Huntington-Whiteley’s relationship with Burberry has worked remarkably well for both parties since the fashion label’s chief creative director, Christopher Bailey, first picked her as the face of the brand in 2008.

Africa Fashion Week Los Angeles 2012 - A Huge Success

It was only a year ago that Nnenna Obioha and Onyinyechi Egeonuigwe decided to establish the fashion and events production company, Africa Fashion Week Los Angeles (AFWLA, LLC.). Through dedication, hard work, and the support of a strong team, the duo was able to put together a week long event that raises the bar for future productions of the same theme.

Held at the Papillion Institute of Art, nestled in the heart of Downtown Los Angeles, the inaugural event attracted over 500 guests from the fashion, art, and entertainment communities. Upon arrival, guests were treated to complimentary drinks by Chambord and hor d'oeuvres as they mingled and enjoyed the art exhibition Identifly by Michelle Robinson. Each night of shows was opened up with vibrant African dancers who performed to traditional African music, followed by the main event of runway shows. The musical duo Nola Darling hosted the event, and kept guests informed and entertained throughout the entirety of the program.

Africa Fashion Week Los Angeles 2012 featured 16 local, national, and international designers who showcased their collections to a diverse room full of VIP guests including - MOCA director Jeffery Deitch, actress LaShontae Heckard, Arik Airlines executive Kobina Brew-Hammond, model/actress Keenyah Hill, and artist Michelle Robison. Models walked down the runway to a flurry of flashing lights, as media partners and guests snapped pictures of the amazing designs. The Africa Channel, California Apparel News, LA Raw Magazine, and Obvious Magazine were some of the many media outlets present capturing AFWLA. Guests received complimentary gift bags courtesy of AFWLA sponsors, which included: OPI nail polish, Clear Essence cosmetic gift sets, Vibe Magazine, BlackBook Magazine, Curls hair care products, Lamik cosmetics, and more.

The event has received an overwhelming amount of feedback and praise which the team will use as momentum for their next season of shows. The external support of sponsors, celebrities, and media contributed to AFWLA’s appeal and introduction to the African fashion industry. In debuting and featuring designers who expressed a unique take on African and African-inspired fashion, the inaugural production intends to expand its goals as they relate to offering exposure to underrepresented members of the Western and European fashion industry.

On closing the night, as the founders reflected on the conceptualization of Africa Fashion Week Los Angeles, they both smiled in amazement of how a night of brainstorming evolved into a four-day production that would ultimately shift and propel LA’s fashion scene. In short, it is true what they say: What a difference a year makes.

Kidman sets fashion stakes high on Derby day

Hollywood siren Nicole Kidman stayed long enough to make a lasting impression on the Melbourne Cup carnival but not to see the main race on Derby day.

“Our Nic” set the fashion stakes impeccably high when she arrived just after 11.30am at the Swisse marquee in the exclusive VIP birdcage area wearing a white-lace My Fair Lady-inspired outfit.

Showing style, grace and a touch of humour, Kidman whipped off her high heels when she posed for a photo with the much shorter MasterChef judge George Calombaris.

The pair had a laugh as photographers had a field day tapping into the lighter side of Kidman’s personality.

Kidman’s fitted dress with black trim was designed by close friend L’Wren Scott and was complemented with a hat by renowned milliner Stephen Jones.

“It’s inspired by (My Fair Lady),” Kidman told reporters.

“It’s one of my favourite movies.

“We decided to do something that was fun and a bit different.”

The Academy Award-winning actress conducted a 20-minute media call before spending more than two and a half hours mingling with the guests of Swisse.

She was accompanied to the event by her parents, Anthony and Janelle Kidman.

Husband and country crooner Keith Urban stayed back in Nashville for the Country Music Association Awards on Thursday night, where he performed and was in the running for Male Vocalist of the Year award.

He was also busy minding their two children - four-year-old Sunday Rose and 23-month-old Faith Margaret.

“I brought my mum and dad,” Kidman said.

“I wish I could have brought Keith but he was at the CMAs last night and taking our kids trick or treating.”

Kidman was due to fly back to France last night to return to the set of the Grace Kelly biopic, Grace of Monaco, in which she plays the leading lady.

Also getting plenty of attention was Russell Crowe’s estranged wife, Danielle Spencer, who played it safe and brought a “close friend” to the races.

Spencer was a guest of Myer in her first public outing since the news of her marriage split.

Dressed in a white Collette Dinnigan outfit with a black belt, Spencer stayed tucked away in a corner of the opulent marquee with a few friends, acutely aware of the media and paparazzi buzzing around the tent.

“I brought a close friend with me,” Spencer said.

Also mingling in the Myer marquee was the brand’s ambassador, Jennifer Hawkins, comedian Mick Molloy and actor Vince Colosimo.

Italian designer Roberto Cavalli had a slightly bigger entourage and security detail than Kidman for his appearance in the Lavazza marquee around 1pm.

He told reporters he started in fashion because: “I could have much more (of a) chance to meet the beautiful girls.”

Irish singer Ronan Keating, who split with his long-term partner earlier this year, brought along his new partner, Aussie TV producer Storm Uechtritz.

Keating, 35, arrived with Uechtritz and a host of Seven Network stars, including fellow X Factor judge Natalie Bassingthwaighte, Packed To The Rafters’s George Houvardas and Erik Thomson and Home And Away trio Demi Harman, Emily Symons and Samara Weaving.

Former Australia’s Got Talent judge Brian McFadden and his wife Vogue McFadden were among the celebrities in the Irish themed-Emirates marquee, which was one of the in-places in the VIP compound.

McFadden chewed the fat with soccer star Harry Kewell, while Collingwood Football Club president and Nine presenter Eddie McGuire was sharing the latest gossip with several AFL identities.

Fashion Manufacturer’s Made in Britain Policy Knits 20% Increase in Sales

One Derbyshire-based fashion house is proving that there is no place like home with sales of its Made in Britain knitwear up 20 per cent – one year on from a £0.5 million investment in a new knitwear division.

In the run up to Christmas, the David Nieper factory is working round the clock to keep up with demand for its knitwear, with staff reaching a woolly landmark of their own after painstakingly hand-linking 25 million knitted stitches to produce more than 15,000 premium quality jumpers.

David Nieper uses only highly skilled, traditional methods to link each piece of a knitted garment together by hand with the skilled seamstress then signing the competed garment as a mark of quality. Today, David Nieper is only one of a very few fashion companies still designing and manufacturing in the UK.

Christopher Nieper, managing director of David Nieper, said: “In the last year, we have knitted more than 15,000 pure merino and cashmere/wool jumpers for our knitwear capsule collections. Making in Britain is the secret of our success and a reason why we’re bucking the trend. Many companies have long since abandoned the UK and manufactured offshore simply for cheaper labour, but by doing the opposite and staying committed to making in Britain for over 50 years, investing in quality and local skills, we are proving that you can be successful if you manufacture in Britain.”

David Nieper has been designing and manufacturing lingerie, nightwear and women’s clothing in Derbyshire for more than 50 years. It added a small collection of knitwear 15 years ago and has always used UK suppliers to produce its designs. But as its original knitwear suppliers closed or outsourced knitwear production overseas, David Nieper made the decision to invest in local traditional skills by bringing knitwear production home to Derbyshire, rather than go abroad.

Christopher Nieper concludes: “We’ve never manufactured overseas. By training and retaining skills and craftsmanship right here in Derbyshire, we are able to design and create ‘Made in Britain’ knitwear that is highly prized for its quality, especially abroad.”

“We are finding that customers are increasingly favouring locally made goods, it’s more sustainable, greener and keeps British jobs, They’re turning away from fast, imported fashion and choose quality clothing that is made to last and by doing everything here; we produce just that, and even make individual alterations so each customer gets an almost ‘made to measure’ service.”

To create its new knitwear division, David Nieper invested in five new knitwear machines, now running 24 hours a day, and recruited six new members of staff – all trained in the traditional skills of linking and seaming as well as running high-tech quality knitwear machinery. In the past six months a further 15 more new people have joined the family firm and the company is seeking more fashion designers, seamstresses and pattern cutters to join its expanding 200+ team in Alfreton, Derbyshire.